Operational and Administrative Duties
Primarily as an UNMO (United Nations Military Observer), we used to perform two kinds of duty; Operational and Administrative. In the charter of Operational duties, we performed Patrolling over an area of responsibility assigned to each teamsites (a total of 9 teamsites were established throughout the W. Sahara. The teamsites are self contained complexes which are able to sustain minimum 15-20 UNMOs). The aim of this patrolling is to monitor the cease fire agreement between the two groups of conflict (RMA-Royal Moroccan Army and FPOL-Frente Polisario). This was particularly military sorts of duty we used to perform and in addition to that, we used to check and identify the UXOs (unexploded ordnance) that are littered over the whole area.
Our administrative aspect of duty covered the day to day routine activities in the teamsites. The teamsite I was assigned to was in the farthest part of the northern sector and close to Algerian border. It was called 'Bir Lahlaou' alias Bad Boys House. This teamsite was particularly facing a problem of usable water as the water had to be collected from a nearby well once in a week. We used to call it Water Patrol. Two UNMOs making a group with necessary equipment and a job of 5-6 hours depending upon the sweet will of the water pump and the level of water deposited in the two wells. The water was too salty and used to be sterilized with chlorine.
The Passion of a Bad Boy
Over a period of time I grew experienced with the events which kept on educating me. I felt a change within me which was more of psychological in nature rather than losing couple of kg of weight. When there is a full moon and the helipad in front of our compound is flooded with the moonlight, when the gentle breeze blows out of nowhere, I feel like an alien just arrived in this place. All the nights here are cool, meditative and out of any civilized sounds except the continuous roaring of generators. I bet any visitor in this place would have a night's repose.
Whenever we pass by the Bir Lahlaou township (commonly known to us as down town) and the empty yellow hospital complex, they speak to us about the future of a prospective capital. Sometimes, we gather in a Bedouin woman's tent (Nuna's tent) and she would offer us tea and we drink it thrice (first for the welcome, second for the good health and third for the good bye). As the day passes by, the bond among the bad boys gets stronger and deeper. After the dinner we sit outside the radio room and speak about our past lives, our happiness, our sorrows, our families, our hopes and aspirations almost in a soliloquy. It seems none of us are hearing each other except the breeze playing around us. Someone would hope for his reassignment in the capital Laayoune, some would like to drink and love the alcohol induced sleep, someone awaits for the mails and some for the CTOs. Only the sands and stones do not hope and express themselves.
One thing always amazes me and that is; the bondage among the former teamsite members who are already away from here. Sometimes, I try to find out the reason and I guess there is something in the air of this place which cemented the relationship where we forget our cultural, psychological, ethnical differences and only become poor human beings. And may be this is the greatest lesson I have learnt here and so to all the current and former Bad Boys.
As the sun rises in the distant horizon of Bir Lahlaou and we grow older, we keep wondering and feeling our invisible comradeship with all the others as they left their inscriptions in the mess hall (traditionally once an UNMO is outgoing, he is allotted with a space in the wall of the mess, where he writes couple of sentences prior to his departures). You would find so many have passed by as you read those. It is like a story book dated from 1991 till today. So many different feelings and aspirations. I also wonder someday once the mission would terminate who would take over this place, either the Polisario or the Moroccans. Once they take over would they ever think of us? Who once lived here, dreamt here, shared their feelings together and left so many unsung rhythms in the ether? Someone's loving memories in the sands, as they watched one sunrise and one sunset together? This place though won't turn out to be an archaeological wonder but definitely it has imprinted its permanency in the hearts of the Bad Boys who are already spread around the globe. You will recognize the Bad Boys once you see them wearing grey caps and hug each other which lasts more than the usual. This is the passion of the Bad Boy and it would remain.
(this article was published in the North Sector Tribune in June 2001)
Duty Images
Team Site Bir Lahlou
Bir Lahlou Rear View
While Patrolling
Patrolling near Fort Bentili
Finding an abandoned house
Finding UXOs
The Water Patrol with camels
Near a Way point